- France is renowned for its traditional bistros and cafés, but specialty coffee culture is also proliferating in both small towns and large cities throughout the country.
- Specialty coffee’s market share in France has increased steadily in recent years, from 1-2% of the overall coffee market in 2017 to about 4% in 2020, according to CBI.
- In a country that doesn’t easily give up traditions, both specialty coffee and bistros will need to coexist.
- With France’s focus on gastronomy, there’s potential for significant innovation in specialty coffee.
France boasts a storied coffee heritage dating back to the 17th century. Today, the French coffee scene conjures images of bustling café terraces and iconic bistros.
These establishments remain an integral part of modern French coffee culture, but over the past decade, the country has also experienced significant growth in specialty coffee consumption.
As specialty cafés proliferate, they introduce modern aesthetics, new rituals, and stiffer competition for traditional venues. Many now favour Nordic-inspired, minimalist, and laptop-friendly settings, replacing ornate interiors with more streamlined designs. The classic café au lait is gradually supplanted by the flat white and cappuccino as consumer preferences shift.
Specialty coffee is spreading from major cities into smaller towns. As traditional and specialty offerings coexist, new roasters emerge and flourish, driving innovation and reshaping consumer habits.
I spoke to Mikaël Portannier of Parcel Coffee, Christophe Servell of Terres de Café, and Guillaume Langloy at Loutsa Torréfacteur to learn more.
You may also likeour article on how Eastern Europe is embracing specialty coffee.
A brief history of coffee in France
The longstanding history of European coffee consumption and café culture dates back to the 17th century, when coffee spread throughout the continent and the first coffee houses opened, including in France.
Initially, Turkish-style coffee was most popular and eventually gave name to the “petit noir”, a drink that still endures today in France.
“France was an early coffee adopter. The Bourbon variety was first introduced to the island of Bourbon (now La Réunion) under King Louis XIV’s rule,” says Christophe, the founder of Terres de Café, a specialty coffee roaster in France that focuses on some of the world’s most exclusive coffees. “From there to the mid-18th century, coffee was considered a rare and expensive terroir-focused product.”
At the end of the 18th century, it was estimated that Paris was home to more than 800 cafés. During the early 19th century, the number is believed to have increased to over 3,000, making coffee one of the most popular drinks in the French capital.
Café culture expanded and thrived, as coffee houses became important public meeting spaces, embodying many characteristics of the third place. These traditional cafés and bistros are still an integral part of modern French society.
“Traditional French café culture isn’t necessarily about the coffee itself, but about the ritual around it,” says Mikaël, the 2025 World Coffee Roasting Champion and the founder of Parcel, a specialty coffee roaster in Normandy, France. “Coffee has always been something you enjoy seated on a terrace, facing the sun, with a newspaper or a friend. It’s more about connection, conversation, and slowing down than about the drink as an energy boost.”
This slow, experience-driven culture of enjoying coffee parallels the Italian and Spanish coffee-drinking cultures. Similar to Italy, most French people drink short black coffee beverages or espresso during the day, with the possible exception of café au lait in the morning.
Specialty meets tradition: How France’s coffee culture is changing
In France, there has always been a strong culture of work-life balance. The French generally value time to slow down, socialise, and indulge in food and drink, resulting in a slower pace of life compared to other Western European cultures.
However, today, younger generations are shifting their preferences and habits, and the coffee scene and its culture have undergone a corresponding transformation.
With an increasing number of freelancers, people working from home, and the emergence of other flexible employment formats, many turn to cafés as an alternative workspace. This trend has coincided with the proliferation of specialty coffee throughout the country, reimagining coffeehouse culture in numerous ways.
“Over the last decade, things have changed dramatically. Ten years ago, even in excellent restaurants or bakeries, coffee quality was often an afterthought,” Mikaël explains. “Today, more and more places understand that serving good coffee completes the entire experience.
“Specialty coffee has become a real part of French gastronomy, and not just something for coffee geeks,” he adds. “In general, French roasting tends to aim for balance, sweetness, and a rounded body, a bit more developed than the very light Nordic style, but much lighter than the old French roast reputation.
“We’ve moved away from the idea that darker is better. Today, French roasters are finding a middle ground: clean, sweet, and elegant flavour profiles.”
Independent specialty coffee shops and brands catering to younger generations, who seek higher-quality offerings and more modern interior design, are thriving in markets such as France.
Specialty coffee’s market share in France has increased steadily in recent years, from 1-2% of the overall coffee market in 2017 to about 4% in 2020, according to CBI.
“The number of local coffee roasters is exploding, as well as coffee shops all across the country,” says Christophe. “The standard for coffee is changing for the better.”
A clash of cultures?
In a country like France, which doesn’t easily give up traditions, however, the most sustainable future will be one where both specialty and traditional coffee culture can coexist. Many consider that specialty does not erase tradition, but rather enhances it.
“Many traditional cafés have started working with small roasters while keeping their classic French charm,” Mikaël says. “You can still sit at a zinc counter or a sunny terrace, but now your espresso actually tastes good. That’s what makes the evolution so exciting; it’s not about changing the atmosphere, just improving the quality inside the cup.”
Although the number of specialty shops and new roasters opening is growing rapidly, the overall shift in France’s coffee culture is happening at a slower pace compared to other Western European countries.
“There is a clear change in the country driven by younger generations looking for quality products, but unlike other countries, it is a slow evolution – far from a revolution,” says Guillaume, the co-founder and CEO of Loutsa, a specialty coffee roaster in Lyon and Paris.
There are evident tensions between the “old” and “new” coffee culture in France. While specialty coffee shops offer much better quality coffee, modern design, the influx of remote workers, and a growing takeaway coffee culture arguably detract from the slow-paced, social spirit that defines traditional French cafés.
Simultaneously, specialty coffee’s emphasis on acidity and fruit-forward flavour profiles presents a stark contrast to what most French coffee drinkers are accustomed to.
“The average French consumer is definitely moving in the direction of better coffee, but habits are tough, and bitterness still rules the game,” says Guillaume.
Roast & ground, as well as single-serve, coffee formats continue to dominate the French market. According to CBI, in 2022, roast & ground and whole bean coffee accounted for 66% of all products sold, with pods accounting for the remaining market share. The coffee pod market accounts for 65% of the total retail market value, significantly exceeding the average of 39% in the European market as a whole.
“Nespresso leads the home market, but every day we see more and more consumers wanting to get away from capsules,” Guillaume says. “After Covid, sales of bean-to-cup machines spiked, and while growth may have slowed down, more and more homes are opting for beans instead of capsules.”
What lies ahead for specialty coffee in France?
As specialty coffee culture experiences a “slow bloom” in France, the question arises of how the country’s coffee market will evolve in the years ahead.
“People no longer need to live in Paris or Lyon to discover specialty coffee,” says Mikaël. “When they can taste it in their own town, they start asking questions, buying beans, and brewing at home. It’s everyday exposure that builds long-term cultural change.
“I think the traditional French café spirit will stay, and people won’t suddenly walk around with takeaway cups like in London or New York,” he adds. “But the quality in those cafés will continue to rise. We’ll see more places serving excellent coffee in a very French way: slowly, with style.”
With the expansion of high-quality coffee offerings, consumer behaviour will inevitably evolve. As people in smaller cities and towns have easier access to better coffee and education about the wider supply chain, preferences will start to shift, particularly among younger generations.
Older consumers will likely continue to gravitate toward traditional bistros and cafés that offer more familiar, historic settings and drinks. As these two coffee spaces coexist, the French market will undergo further transformation.
“People will drink less but better coffee, similar to wine,” Christophe explains. “We drink 50% less wine in France since the 1970s, but better quality, driven by the success of the natural wine market.”
Cultural differences will also play a significant role in the growth of the country’s specialty coffee market. France’s slower pace of life and emphasis on work-life balance often mean that fast or excessive growth is perceived as unsophisticated. As a result, France may not experience the explosive growth and hyper-competitiveness of specialty coffee as seen in markets like the US, the UK, Australia, and Scandinavia.
Taxation and bureaucracy are also important factors at play. France has a complex business landscape that is expensive to navigate, which limits incentives for rapid scaling.
France is Europe’s fifth-largest importer of green coffee, with importers like Belco supporting the growth of the country’s specialty coffee market. The company recently hosted the European edition of the Global Coffee Awards, recognising roasting excellence and the producers behind the coffees.
The country’s global reputation for gastronomy excellence also puts it in a unique position to drive innovation in specialty coffee. France’s use of fresh and diverse local ingredients, its cultural emphasis on dining as a social and sensory experience, and the blending of modern and traditional cuisine set a precedent for experimenting and innovating with specialty coffee.
Similarly, France’s well-established wine sector, which honours factors such as origin, terroir, and processing methods, can provide consumers with a baseline understanding of how to appreciate the same characteristics in specialty coffee.
There’s no doubt that France’s coffee culture is changing. Once characterised by classic bistros and the café au lait, the country is embracing the modernity of specialty coffee.
The market will continue to grow and evolve, albeit at a slower and steadier pace than other Western European countries. But France’s proclivity for wine, gastronomy, and social dining experiences means it has the potential to truly innovate in specialty coffee.
Enjoyed this? Then readour article on the differences in coffee consumption between the US and Europe.
Photo credits: Terres de Café, Loutsa Torréfacteur, Parcel Coffee
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