Washed and natural processed coffees make up the vast majority of the market. Both offer different flavour experiences, and therefore cater to different consumer preferences.
In recent years, however, it’s been hard to ignore the growing prevalence of natural processed coffees in cafés and roasteries. Revered for their fruit-forward flavour profiles, more and more coffee shops have started to serve naturals as espresso.
But at the same time, with their clean and bright cup profile, washed coffees will remain a staple on most menus. So is there a clear winner between the two? And should it matter?
To find out why specialty coffee shouldn’t have a favourite processing method, I spoke to Neil Oney, coffee quality manager at StoneX Specialty Coffee, and Stephen Gray, head of coffee at Origin Coffee Roasters.
You may also likeour article on whether more producers have started to diversify their processing methods.
Washed and natural processing: What’s the difference?
Before we discuss why specialty coffee shouldn’t have a favourite processing method, let’s break down what washed and natural coffees are.
Sometimes referred to as dry processing, natural processing is one of the oldest known techniques. Producers spread out cherries to dry in the sun with the fruit still intact. Once the cherries reach a certain moisture content, they are hulled. This involves removing the dried fruit (including parchment and mucilage) from the seeds.
Historically, this was done by hand, but more modern practices often involve the use of machinery to expedite the process. The beans may then go through additional dry milling to clean them before they are ready for export.
Washed processed coffee (also known as the wet process), meanwhile, requires stricter quality control methods:
- After harvesting, cherries are immediately depulped to remove the skin and fruit surrounding the seeds
- The coffee is then fermented to break down the mucilage – a process that can last anywhere from eight to 72 hours
- After fermentation, the beans are washed to clean away any remaining mucilage and are then sun dried, typically on raised beds or patios
The stark differences between the two processing methods results in very distinct flavour profiles and mouthfeel.
Stephen Gray is the head of coffee at Origin Coffee Roasters – a B Corp UK roaster.
“Generally speaking, washed coffees have more acidity, cleaner and better flavour clarity, and a less pronounced body,” he says. “Conversely, natural coffees have a fuller body, lower acidity, and a more intense sweetness, but with less subtlety or clarity.
“Even with similar tasting notes between the two methods, you would find more crisp, fresh fruit and floral flavours in washed coffees, and deeper, ripe, or stewed fruit flavours in natural coffees, with a ‘booziness’ or ‘funk’ to them,” he adds.
Does flavour influence which processing method is more popular?
Stephen believes processing methods have a direct effect on how popular a coffee is.
“Natural processed coffees tend to be more intense in their flavour, and this makes it easy for them to stand out,” he says – adding that their “funkiness” is often highly sought after.
It’s important to note, however, that natural coffees can somewhat divide opinion.
Neil Oney is the coffee quality manager at StoneX Specialty Coffee, a green coffee trader that works with producers and roasters. He agrees that natural processing can polarise people.
“Especially as fermented flavours become more and more dominant, the chances that someone will love or hate these coffees increases,” he tells me.
On the other hand, washed coffees tend to be cleaner and more consistent than naturals, which means they usually appeal to a wider range of consumers. Moreover, many agree that washed processing highlights a coffee’s innate characteristics, and thereby allows you to more effectively experience its terroir.
Neil notes that while washed coffees maintain a steady presence in specialty coffee, interest in natural coffees has been growing.
“I don’t see natural processed coffees becoming less popular,” he says. “There are some fantastic producers and roasters who are devoted to natural coffee, just as there are those who focus more on washed coffees.”
Stephen echoes this sentiment, but points out that consumers’ tastes evolve over time.
“For people who are new to specialty coffee, natural processed coffees often captivate them with their distinct and unfamiliar flavours,” he says. “However, as your palate becomes more refined, the subtlety and complexity of washed coffees often become more apparent and appreciated.”
How consumer preferences affect processing at origin
Inevitably, the popularity of both washed and natural processing methods affects the coffees that producers grow and roasters sell. According to recent research conducted by Perfect Daily Grind, 52% of people surveyed said they prefer washed coffee, while 28% said natural processing is their favourite.
For the latter, Stephen explains, responding to changes is less challenging.
“It will affect their buying patterns as they try to either follow or get ahead of consumer trends,” he says. “Roasters have the advantage of being closely attuned to consumers, allowing them to navigate the market more easily.”
But producers may find it significantly harder to implement different processing methods, particularly smallholders who often have less access to capital. Investment is considerable and the financial risks can be high, which some farmers aren’t able to absorb.
“It’s very cost and time intensive to learn a new processing method,” Neil explains. “If producers aren’t certain there is a market for these coffees or the processing trials fail then it can be devastating for a small farm.”
Even more importantly, however, is the fact that geographical location and environmental factors can pose huge limitations on coffee processing.
“In countries with high rainfall and less open, flat space, naturals are a lot more difficult to produce, as they require extended periods of exposure to air and sunlight to dry and ferment evenly and consistently,” Stephen says. “In Rwanda, for example, natural processing was actually banned by the government for a long time as people thought it damaged the reputation and value of the country’s coffee.
“Because of this, quality naturals can now fetch high prices in Rwanda,” he adds. “But depending on a farm’s location, natural processing might be the only feasible option for a coffee producer.”
Innovation in coffee processing is ongoing
While both natural and washed coffees have their fans, there are more options available on the market than ever before.
Both Stephen and Neil tell me they have seen a huge rise in controlled fermentation techniques, which suggests more interest in a scientific approach to processing – similar to those in the beer and wine industries.
Neil points out that experimentation with methods like anaerobic fermentation and yeast inoculation has been gathering speed for some time. Although implementing these processes can be tricky, it allows producers to control the flavours in their coffee when done right.
However, just like pivoting to a more conventional processing method, this can represent a significant financial risk for farmers. Similarly, the market for these coffees is limited and becoming more saturated – which needs to be considered.
With their distinct flavour profiles, washed and natural processed coffees will always have their place in the industry. But it’s also about more than flavour, as producers’ needs and access to resources are just as important.
The popularity of washed coffees and naturals will inevitably shift from time to time as consumer preferences change. Specialty coffee, however, should strive to embrace both – and be mindful that it shouldn’t chase continued innovation in processing at any cost.
Enjoyed this? Then readour article on how we really define experimental processing.
Photo credits: Origin Coffee Roasters, StoneX Specialty Coffee
Perfect Daily Grind
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